Mandalay...oh...Mandalay

Ce fut une de nos etapes preferees! Nous sommes restes presque 10 jours et ce pour plusieurs raisons: une guesthouse super accueillante avec un bon petit dejeuner:-), une ville ou se deplacer en moto est aise, des environs campagnards avec pas mal de choses a visiter, une chaleur impressionante (oui c'est bien moi qui le dis:-).

Namhsan: End of the Road!

And off we go on a motorbike trip to the mountains of Myanmar! At 1700m, this village is surrounded by mountains covered by tea plants. It took us a while to recognise them as the plants were sparse and short, not at all like the luxuriant Malay ones. The whole village makes a living out of the tea production which is exported all over the country. A young guy explained to us that Germans and Japanese were about to visit them to see if they could import Namhsan tea.

Hsipaw, a Countryside Stop

A nice town in the Shan state, Hsipaw conquered us by its calm, its inhabitants' kindness and its countryside beauty where the soil wears the most beautiful red color ever seen. Like anywhere else, motorbikes have brought freedom and young people really enjoy riding between lost hamlets while kids stroll around on buffalo's backs.

Le Lac Inlay

Apres l'aridite de la plaine de Bagan, le lac Inlay nous a apportes un vent de fraicheur avec des temperatures redescendant aux alentours de 20-30 degres. Une Birmanie en mouvement s'est revelee sous nos yeux. D'un cote, les pecheurs continuent leur rythme de vie ancestral. Ils vivent de peche et de legumes qui poussent sur des jardins flottants. Ce concept nous a d'ailleurs etonnes: le travail requis est enorme! D'un autre, de grandes constructions sont en oeuvre sur les berges du lac: hotel, usine, nous n'avons trop su...Nul doute que la purete des paysages est a apprecier au plus vite.

Bagan

Are human beings mad? Yes and Bagan can prove it!

From the 11th to the 13th century, Burmese dynasties concetrated on building temples. How could they build thousands of them in just 200 years? They must have spent all their time and energy in doing bricks and constructing temples.
The result is stunning. We drove through this arid plain with our bicycles (foreigners can not rent motorbikes in Bagan....so we cycled our 10-15km a day by a minimum of 40 degrees, that was eco-friendly:-) going from one masterpiece to another.

Yangon: First Steps in Myanmar

It is no longer the capital of Myanmar but it is still the biggest city. For some obscure reasons probably related to astrology, the generals have moved the capital North of Yangon. This is a practice which was used many times in the country history. Anyway, Yangon was surprisingly multicultural. In particular Indian influences could be seen in the way people look, cook or practice Islam and Hinduism. Chinese are also very much present in the capital.

This first approach underlined straight away the poverty of Myanmar. But in the last few years things have changed dramatically. Electronic shops can be found everywhere whereas during the saffron revolution in 2007 journalists were not free to shot events. Mobile phones are currently won through lottery and more and more people use them. People came to talk to us without any problem. They were clearly happy to see foreigners. Only five years ago they were afraid of being forgotten by the international community.

Volunteering in Thai Countryside

View from our restaurant

Pakson: a small village lost in South Thailand. When the bus stopped in the middle of nowhere, I understood I had reached the heart of the Southern country....

Wat Pho e la Tradizione Tailandese

Tavole di massaggio tradizionale con i meridiani del corpo

E dopo tre anni di attesa, e` di nuovo Bangkok!.. e questa volta c`e` una missione precisa per essere qui: raccogliere una goccia di quel sapere millenario che e` orgoglio della Thailandia e suo simbolo nel mondo, il massaggio tradizionale tailandese. Piano d`azione: seguire il corso di massaggiatore nel tempio di quel sapere, il Wat Pho, tempio buddista e centro di medicina tradizionale e massaggio tradizionale tailandese.

A Splash in Thailand

Little cute girl getting ready.

We survived!!.. after the last days debating about the best route to travel from Malaysia to Thailand, we have done it... and we are, almost, all in one piece. The point was: better to travel fast through the east coast, but risk to blow up in a terrorist attack, or play it safe and go all the way around the west coast and travel incessantly for more than 2 days??.. well.. lazy as we are, we went for the east coast and everything went smooth and nice..

East Coast: Last Days in Malaysia

Market Colors

Perenthian Islands are located on the North East coast of Malaysia, two islands with beautiful beaches, amazing marine life and thick jungle. We arrived there by a sunny afternoon and the water was really amazing. During our snorkeling trip we saw black tip sharks, manta rays, many corals and tropical fishes, murrays, turtles...the water was actually warmer than the air because......it was raining!! Tropical paradise starts with tropical and the east coast of Malaysia is one the most humid. After a few days of unsettled "paradise", we decided to leave for Kota Barhu, the last step before crossing the border to Thailand.

Taman Negara: una Storia lunga 130 Milioni di Anni

Immaginate di essere in una giungla tropicale, a ore di cammino da qualunque comunicazione con il mondo esterno, con elefanti, cinghiali, tigri (ok, poche tigri) e serpenti, con la pioggia leggera e tuoni che promettono molto di piu`, e sentire quella piacevole sensazione di tornare a casa quando ti stai arrampicando sulle rocce che nascondono l`entrata alla grotta dove dormirai la prossima notte.. questa e` la sensazione che ho provato quando siamo rientrati alla nostra grotta.. c`ero stato solo cinque minuti in quella grotta, per posare lo zaino dopo una camminata di sei ore, e subito ero uscito con gli altri uomini per raccogliere il legno per il fuoco che ci terra` al sicuro di notte.. ma quei cinque minuti di relax e l`ambiente ostile fuori, son bastati a farmi sentire quella sensazione di casa al rientro.. insomma, quei cavernicoli, non se la passavano mica bene!!.. vuoi vedere il domani? ti serve il fuoco per la notte; vai fuori nella foresta a raccoglierlo, e tanto!.. vuoi mangiare? ti serve l`acqua; vai fuori nella foresta a prenderla... nel mezzo della notte vuoi andare in bagno? e` fuori, nella foresta buia! accomodati.. insomma, uno stress.. e poco divertimento.. Ma, per una notte, e con la promessa di un bagno in un bel fiume il giorno dopo, e` praticamente una passeggiata..

Cameron Highlands

Here we are, again in one other hill station disseminated in the Asia continent, born thanks to the need of cool air of the English colonialists. It is quite funny to see that wherever the Englishs have established a base, then somewhere close, they have created as well a residential hill station where they could get some fresh air and cool off from the oppressing hot air of the low lands. Clearly I refer to the tropics! Here in Malaysia the most famous is Cameron Highlands. 1500m on the sea level and beautiful mountains and hills and jungle make this place very pleasant indeed. And if an English man is at this heights and in the tropics, what would he do??.. Yes, sure... a tea plantation!!..

Georgetown, Melting-pot on the Malacca Strait

Georgetown on Penang island, on the west coast, is one of the most beautiful example of cultural mix. Three centuries ago, it was on the spice road between India and China. The British took advantage of its interesting central position and the island became a melting pot. Malays, Chinese, Indians, Indonesians, Japanese, Arabs, Europeans...all came to Penang with their culture and aspirations. First Chinese mixed up with the Malays, but the later comers kept their own communities and traditions. The result is visible in the amazing architecture of the town centre. Beautiful temples and Chinese clan halls have been renovated thanks to Unesco Heritage funding.  It reminded us of the temples in Vietnam. As usual, Chinese trading skills have been an asset to the city. Chinatown still shows import/export shops and the most amazing tea shop where tea is treated like precious wines. Some tea leaves are apparently kept for many years and flavors of the best teas in Asia are available.

Langkawi

Questa la promessa dell`organizzatori malesi: allineatevi per sei e la felicita` sara` vostra!

E nel mezzo del cammin di nostra gita, piu` una settimana, ci siam ritrovati in Langkawi: un isola nella costa nord-occidentale malese, che e` legendaria per la sua bellezza e per essere la dimora del legendario Garuda, il dio-uccello messaggero di Vishnu.

E il primo impatto con la Malesia e`... un viaggio lunghissimo.. e infatti grazie all`organizzazione Cavallo&Cavallo, la nostra prima destinazione e` a 8 ore di bus di distanza.. piu` un altro bus locale.. piu` un traghetto veloce.. piu` una corsa di taxi.. ma alla fine, grande riconpensa, appaiono il piccolo Gianluca, la grande Romina e il grandissimo Koen!! :) yeessss.... bellissimo!.. :)

Ha Long Bay

 Hanoi Fine Arts Museum - Lacquered Ha Long Bay

Choosing a way to visit the jewel of Vietnam is not an easy task: so many options, so many boat operators, and so many different prices. We shopped around and decided to trust a very dynamic young Vietnamese lady (actually they all are dynamic in this country!). So from Hanoi we started our journey in a minivan full of Germans (here they are...we found them in Vietnam if not in India and in Philippines), and fortunately (well nothing against the Germans but when they are in group, they kind of speak German) with two Spanish, one Australian and his shy but nice Vietnamese friend.

Sapa in Northern Vietnam

North Vietnam is home to most of the ethnic minorities of Vietnam. They represent as much of 14 % of the total population. One of the most numerous are the H'mongs who emigrated from South China. Ethnic minorities belong to the lower social class. Some have been pushed to the Highlands to cultivate rice and corn in very difficult areas. Viets control the lowlands and the rich valleys. There are sometimes tensions between minorities and the government.
In Sapa, what strikes you first are the colorful H'mong women wanting to sell you handicrafts. They can be quite aggressive and it is the first time in Asia where we felt so much pressure. We came to the North for the mountains, the hikes in a stunning scenery but we couldn't help being surprised by the poverty of these people.

Hanoi

Fine arts musuem.
Lacquered rediscovered by young artists

Hanoi, the Northern capital, welcomed us at 7am after a painful night in a bus by diffusing communist speeches (no need to understand Vietnamese to get what it was about) and patriotic songs through noisy loudspeakers located in every street corner. Meanwhile, in the old quarter, people were busy preparing food on the pavement. And by food, it is meant any kind of food: clams, frogs, crabs, kidneys, chicken, beef, tofu....and fortunately bread to save up our sensitive morning stomach!
This is the capital: rich people, serious people, fun people too. It is dynamic but not as warm as Saigon. Wandering in the streets was a show in itself....the heart of Vietnam can be felt there.

Hué

Ideogramme symbolisant la longevite

Symbole de l'unite du Vietnam, Hue fut la cite imperiale de ce pays au 17e siecle. Les Nguyen furent les premiers a unifier le Vietnam du Nord au Sud et durant presque deux siecles, avant l'arrivee des Francais, les Vietnamiens purent "profiter" de leur independence. Un bien grand mot sachant que les frasques des empereurs Nguyen ne furent pas toujours tres populaires. Mais ces empereurs etaient amoureux des arts et furent construires de magnifiques ensembles architecturaux aux alentours de Hue en guise de mausolees. Ceux-ci sont mieux conserves que la cite elle-meme dont les batiments ont grandement souffert de la guerre du Vietnam.

Hoi An

On our way north through Vietnam, Hoi An has been a truly great stop. This Unesco World Heritage Town still maintains the beautiful charm of the old Vietnam, with a pedestrian-only center, back-waters running to the sea, fantastic restaurants and ruins from an old powerful civilization, the Champa.

Mekong delta

The Mekong Delta is the richest agricultural region of Vietnam. It is called the "bowl of Asia" as enough rice is produced not only to feed Vietnamese but also to export abroad. In the 19th century French people saw the potential of the area and pushed (harshly) for its development. In 75, Pol Pot tried to invade the delta claiming it as a Khmer territory. So Vietnamese had to defend this strategic area, straight after the end of the Vietnam war, and invaded Cambodia. It eventually led to Pol Pot terrible regime's fall.

Saigon

Saigon: oubliez les images romantiques d'Indochine. Saigon ou Ho Chi Minh, du nom du pere de la nouvelle Republique socialiste Vietnamienne, est la ville la plus dynamique de ce pays. De gratte-ciels en elegantes boutiques de mode, elle est la preuve de l'ouverture a une societe de marche controlee et de l'afflux des investissements etrangers. Il faut se promener vers Cho Long, le quartier Chinois, pour retrouver une atmosphere plus ancienne. Il en est ainsi des villes asiatiques: table rase du passe et constructions nouvelles est la loi.

SagaaadaaaaaAAAGGGHHHH........

Most amazing rainbow ever!!

E iniziamo con un bell`arcobaleno su questa stupenda valle di pietre calcaree, perche` quel che segue sara`.... teeetroooooo.......

Nature and Culture Fusion in Ifugao Land

North Luzon, 9 hours North of Manila, is like another country. Forget the sea, the bangkas, the fishermen and welcome to impressive mountains: La Cordillera with summits above 2000m! Ifugao people belong to the indigenous tribe who 2000 BC started to carve the mountains by designing rice terraces. They build up ingenious irrigation system and impressive walls to sustain the terraces. The funny thing is that during 4000 years they kept on doing the same thing. They were completely isolated in these mountains and it is only now that development is catching up with them.

La Domenica Sportiva

Ed eccoci qui, domenica pomeriggio.. pronti per un pomeriggio di sport, come ogni degno domenica pomeriggio deve essere!!.. :) ..ma in assenza della formula uno, non essendo esattamente un appassionato di basket e con il calcio che ancora dorme in Europa, mi lancio sul secondo "sport" nazionale delle Filippine!! Il combattimento di gallli!.. e dopo aver passato un mese a rincorrere un "Derby", come viene comunemente chiamato, in lungo e in largo nelle Filippine, oggi e` proprio qui, quasi nel giardino di casa!

Ocean wave in Sabang

Sabang is famous because of its undergroung river, supposedly one of the longest on earth. Filipinos are proud of their New seven wonder of the world (this comes from a dubious vote on the internet but well, it is official and advertised everywhere) and come from all the ocuntry to visit it. We knew in advance this wonder was  a bit disappointing but decided to stay for a few days to enjoy the beautiful beach of Sabang and its wild surroundings.

Fisherman Rhythm in Port Barton

Port Barton is a nice and clean fishermen village built on a beautiful bay. There was no internet and electricity only from 6 to 10pm. Boracay may have looked the same 20 years ago. Port Barton has become a favorite among backpackers who have time to travel because of its peaceful atmosphere. A few resorts are now built: just enough so you feel comfortable as a tourist without bothering the locals. It is not easy to reach it (one hour on a bumpy road) and as soon as it rains the road must get incredibly muddy.

The Bacuit Archipelago

Let's be clear: this is one of the most beautiful place on earth we have ever seen! This archipelago is made of limestone islands, sandy beaches, beautiful lagoons, and clear water. The cliffs are just spectacular! We were unconscious enough to do a cliff-climbing trek with a Filipino guide: we thought we would be peacefully hiking and we ended up climbing rocks as vertical as a wall with all the safety you can imagine:-)Anyway the view from the top was brilliant!

The Filipino way

Filipino economy

As soon as we landed in Philippines, we were surprised by the fact that it is not that cheap. The most current products are rice and fuel which cost respectively €0.6 a kilo (I am sure most Asian shops in London or Paris can compete with that) and €1 a liter  A waitress or a fisherman earn about 150€ a month though.

Other products are never less than the third of the UK price whether you buy them in supermarkets or in local shops. So how on earth can they afford to do some shopping?
In Dumaguete, the student city, big malls are being built and there are people  busy shopping around. Who are they?

Bohol: a cute encounter..

Bigger eyes than brain and can hold in the palm of your hand: this is the Filipino tarsier!

Bohol is famous for its conservation effort of one of the smallest primate on earth: the cute little tarsier. Nocturnal and fragile, it is threatened by its habitat loss and the pet trade. We visited the tarsier foundation where this little animal can enjoy 200 hectares of freedom. Another particularity of the island are the "chocolate hills". Formed by millions of year of erosion on a limestone landscapes, they look like... well you'll choose:-). And of course, we enjoyed a beautiful day of snorkeling in the amazing reef of Balicasag island closed by. One part had been damaged by a typhoon in November but the rest was just stunning...

Dumaguette, la belle cite etudiante, la bella citta` studentesca

We crossed Panay and Negros islands with the usual ferry/bus/jeepney/tricycle (above) combination to stay for a few nice days in the student city of Dumaguete. From there we swam with turtles in Apo island, we approached the giant whale sharks, observed the Filipino petanque (with coconut and stones!), explored the jungle inland and enjoyed the best massage ever... It was really a great atmosphere with plenty of  Filipinos students making this city looking young and dynamic

Ati-Atihan: Carnival for the "Santo Nino"

Ati-Atihan is one of the biggest "carnival" of Philippines. The Atis were the original inhabitants of Panay island. In the 13th century, tribes from Borneo had to run away from their own land and arrived in Panay. The Atis welcomed them so well that each year a festival was organised where Borneo settlers and the Atis danced and played music together. In honour of the Atis, Borneo tribes darkened their skin. The practice is still done today. After christianisation, a procession for Santo Nino was of course added. An impressive mass schedule is organised but the hit is defnitely the big parade!

Boracay: kitesurfers and Asian tourists paradise

The most vibrant island of the Visayas became famous thanks to its 4km long white sand tropical beach. The beach is long indeed, and the sand is amazingly white. But over-development has got a price: a green algae has developped in the water in the South of the island. Fortunately, the Northern beaches are still protected and very beautiful. And the conditions are perfect for kitesurfers who literally invade the East beach from January to March.

Welcome to the Pacific Ring of Fire: Philippines!

Mamamia che pulito!

It was far from being obvious but after 2 months in India, this is the first and only exclamation we could say when landing in Philippines. Singapore airline and airport had been like an oasis of cleanliness, technology and tropical gardens. A shock was to be expected in the Philippines, which is after all one of the poorest country in South-East Asia, right?

Farewell to India

So the trip to India has just come to an end. Flying from Delhi to Singapore, on our way to Manila, there is just enough time to try to get a sense of what will remain before diving into another culture.

Incredible India as it is everywhere advertised is not for the faint-hearted. Our last day in Delhi helped us to understand the gap between the countryside and the capital. Delhi was supposed to be incredibly tough and dirty. We must have come a long way during the last two months..Strolling in old Delhi, I could only think: waooo pavements, sewers, no cows, people busy doing their own business, no hassle...Of course the electrical equipments hanging in the streets make you pray for your life each time you look up. But I was impressed by the modernity of the metro, by Connaught place which looks like Europe (well, maybe South Europe) and by the standard of our hotel that was not supposed to be that high. Suburbs are different and there are people living in extreme poverty but the capital left me a positive and dynamic impression, despite the fog and the cold.

So eventually what remains is a puzzle.