Roads of Asia: Yangon: First Steps in Myanmar

It is no longer the capital of Myanmar but it is still the biggest city. For some obscure reasons probably related to astrology, the generals have moved the capital North of Yangon. This is a practice which was used many times in the country history. Anyway, Yangon was surprisingly multicultural. In particular Indian influences could be seen in the way people look, cook or practice Islam and Hinduism. Chinese are also very much present in the capital.

This first approach underlined straight away the poverty of Myanmar. But in the last few years things have changed dramatically. Electronic shops can be found everywhere whereas during the saffron revolution in 2007 journalists were not free to shot events. Mobile phones are currently won through lottery and more and more people use them. People came to talk to us without any problem. They were clearly happy to see foreigners. Only five years ago they were afraid of being forgotten by the international community.

In 2007 protests due to the rise of fuel, the cost of living and the incredibly harsh government occurred in Myanmar and in particular in Yangon. Monks and students led this saffron revolution. The government answered with strong violence. In 2008 a cyclone devastated the Irrawaddy delta. The government managed to delay international help for the people in need. Eventually international pressure and opposition led by The Lady (Luc Besson's movie "The Lady" is not a masterpiece but helps to understand the story of Myanmar Nobel Prize) influenced the government which launched the "road map to democracy". Nobody really understands its move after 50 years of military dictatorship. The most plausible explanation is that generals may have realized they can earn more money by opening the borders rather than closing them.

During all these years Myanmar was not as closed as we may think. Trade carried on with China, India and Thailand. The country has got plenty of natural resources and is famous for its gems, as well as the infamous conditions in which people have to work in the mines. Going towards democracy means easing the sanctions imposed by the US and Europe and having more trade partners...

Yangon's Jewel is the Shwedagon pagoda, one of the most important Buddhist sites. Its golden stupa is specially beautiful at night. The atmosphere was so peaceful and touching. Many pilgrims were praying and strolling clockwise around the pagoda. We laughed at the "dysneyland" Buddha with multicolored flash lights, so far from the suffering Christ in our churches. Families, individual people, monks, nuns strolling, the sound of prayers, the little bells, the golden colors...all this created a very special and magical night.